Here it is the middle of September and I believe many of us are awaiting the steelhead to arrive in our favorite river. Well there is good news they are nearly here and the numbers right now are looking good too. As of September 14, 2008 nearly 48,000 Steelhead have crossed Lower Granite Dam, which is the last dam they cross before entering Idaho. Compared to 23,000 for the same time last year the numbers look very good. Over the next couple of weeks steelhead fish will be picking up here in Idaho and with some rain forecast for later this week the steelhead will really start to move.

Steelhead anglers are doing well on the lower Snake River and the Lower Clearwater rivers all ready with catch rates in the 6 to 8 hours per steelhead caught. Those are good catch rates for the first part of the steelhead season. With over 2,000 fish per day crossing over Lower Granite Dam it will not be long before fishing gets very hot.

I have heard of a couple of steelhead being hooked on the salmon river near Riggins. Although I have not been able to confirm this I do know that Bass anglers usually catch a few steelhead every year during the early fall. I would imagine that that is what is happening now.

The late summer early fall bass fishing on the salmon river does produce some nice small mouths every year and it is not fished as hard as other spots here in Idaho. So if you want to get out this weekend take along some bass gear as well. Bass jigs work very well for the steelhead as many of you know.

I guess it is time to get out my gear and get it ready for what at this point looks to be an exciting year. Hope to see you on the River shortly.

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!

This technique is affective on STEELHEAD, SALMON & TROUT

Drift fishing is easy, fun and effective. Many anglers have used the technique over the years. This technique only gains in popularity as more and more streams across the country are supporting trout, steelhead and salmon runs. Whether a beginner or a more experienced angler, this article will help, you become even more successful using the drift fishing method of fishing.

One of the most important, things you can do to improve your fishing success, is to maintain razor sharp hooks on your lures at all times. A fine-toothed file such as Luhr Jensen’s Sharp Hook File^TM is the absolute best hook-sharpening tool available. You hold it parallel to the hook point and with gentle, one-way strokes; remove a small amount of metal on at least two sides of the point. This will create a point with a razor-like cutting edge. Keep the file clean and dry and occasionally spray it with a non-corrosive lubricant such as WD-40. Sharp Hook Files^TM are available in 5 1/2′ x 3/4″ or 4 1/4″ x 5/8″ sizes.
© Luhr Jensen & Sons, Inc.

Typical drift fishing waters consist of a series of pools and rapids, with the pools (drifts) holding feeding, resting or migrating fish. Drifting lures through these pool areas, with the drift fishing technique, will often produce excellent results. The basic drift fishing technique consists of casting across and upstream, and then allowing your drift bobber and accompanying sinker to drift naturally downstream in the current, the sinker gently bouncing along the bottom. When your lure has drifted back near the bank, it is reeled in and another cast and drift made.

Buoyant drift bobbers simulate fish egg clusters, shrimp or other natural baits. Corkies, Sammie’s, and Spin-n-glows are some of the more common ones used. Their success is attributed to their color, action and buoyancy as they are drifted naturally along the bottom through fish-holding water.

There are scores of ways to add weight ahead of a drift bobber. Pencil lead, either solid or hollow core, is the most popular and has proved both economical and easy to use.

Some examples are depicted below:

Solid pencil lead is best fastened to your line using a Lead Cinch^TM, which consists of a three-way swivel and a length of surgical tubing. Your main line is tied to one end of the swivel, leader and bobber to the other end and a section of pencil lead inserted into the Lead Cinch^TM (surgical tubing). If the lead becomes snagged, it will pull away from the tubing and your drift bobber and tubing can be retrieved.

LEAD CINCH^TM: Surgical tubing and swivel rig for holding and attaching solid pencil lead. It comes ready to tie on and is available in three different diameters to fit all popular lead sizes.

LEAD TIP: Your pencil lead should always hang straight, as a bent or crooked piece of lead will often result in twisting or tangling of your line.

One of the big tricks to successful drift fishing is to select just the right amount of weight for the water you are fishing. A weight that is too heavy will snag easily while one that is too light will not keep your drift bobber near the bottom where the fish are. The ideal weight is one that results in a tap-tap-skip action as it makes regular contact with the bottom and then rises a bit before hitting again.

Experienced drift anglers usually start working an unknown drift with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch piece of pencil lead. After making a drift or two, they know if they need to shorten it or lengthen it until the drift feels just right with that tap-tap-skip action.

Hollow pencil lead is best fastened by crimping it to a short leader dropped from a barrel swivel as shown in the illustrations. If this lead becomes snagged, a sharp pull will free the lead from the drop leader and your drift bobber, leader and swivel can normally be retrieved.

Pencil lead comes in coils or long sections so you can cut off the desired amount. Most lead available through sport shops comes in diameters of 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch.

Successful drift fishing requires that your line be close to the bottom. Hence, it is important to use a heavier line than you would ordinarily select for lake fishing, as it will have to take the added bottom-scraping abrasion that comes with drifting. We recommend that you use a premium quality, monofilament line, such as Trilene XT® or Berkley® Big Game.

There are three instinctive reasons a fish bites a drift bobber: It is either hungry, protecting its territory or curious. Although strikes can be hard, they are often almost undetectable especially for the novice angler. Some fish will only lightly mouth a bobber and this kind of “take” is very difficult to discern from the lure’s ordinary bottom tapping. Many fish are lost or not hooked simply because the angler just cannot detect these soft pickups. There are, however, two things you can do which will help you seize these light-biters: Use razor-sharp hooks and add some yarn below your bobber.

Sharp hooks are critical no matter what kind of fishing you do, but they become even more important when trying to hook light-biting fish while drift fishing. A fish will have a great deal of difficulty getting a razor-sharp hook out if its mouth without it sinking in somewhere. Once a sharp point catches, every move the fish makes to expel it will only drive it deeper and you will feel a harder “hit” as the fish attempts to throw it.

Yarn is your second edge for hooking light-biters. The addition of a tuft of colorful yarn just ahead of your hook and below the drift bobber will add color and contrast to your lure; it will also make it very difficult for a fish to spit out the hook. Once taken, the yarn tangles in the fish’s teeth and every effort to get rid of the lure will send another signal to you to set the hook.

Drift anglers use yarn to give their lures added appeal and color. By tying a tuft on the hook itself, or just below the bobber so as not to interfere with its action, you will often increase a bobber’s effectiveness. As indicated earlier, yarn also can catch in the teeth of fish, allowing you extra time to feel the “set” and set the hook.

Setting up to jig fish is a simple process. All you need is your favorite jig, a float and enough added weight to balance your float.

To weight your float and jig, you have a choice of pencil lead, egg sinker or a slinky. My favorite weight system is the egg sinker in line with my float and jig. The type of weight you use is really a matter of personal preference though. The important part is that the combined weight of your jig and weight allows your float to ride at the proper level in the river. Most floats come with a colored band near the top this is how much of the float that should protrude above the water.

Selecting the best rod and reel combination for steelhead jig fishing, you again must consider the type of water you intend to fish, and the size of jigs that will work best under those conditions. For tossing jigs weighing 1/4 ounce and more, a level wind reel, or bait casting reel as many call it I feel makes the best choice. I do not have any personal favorite as to reel models the Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5600AB (anti-backlash) reel may make a good choice if you are afraid of the dreaded birds nest that are often associated with a bait casting reel. If you find yourself fishing tiny jigs with equally small floats and weights, you may find using a spinning reel just a little easier to cast.

Rods for fishing jigs must be long and light. Long rods are necessary to help keep your line off the water as your float drifts its way downstream. Light rods are needed to avoid fatigue over a long season. I like a bait casting rod in the ten to twelve foot range designed for six to twelve pound test lines when fishing larger rivers. On the smaller steams, I prefer a spinning rod in the seven to eight foot length. If you decide to go with a spinning rod, choose one with a slow action rated for 6 to 15 pound test lines.

The choice of a jig is a personal preference. Here are several thoughts to help you with this choice. In low clear water use small jigs in pale shades. Faded pinks, tan, and pale browns are my favorite clear water jig colors. Choose jigs in the 1/32 to 1/8 ounce size range when fishing clear water. If you are going to be fishing big rivers with strong flows, I prefer larger jigs and bright colors. My favorite jig for big water is hot pink, 1/4 ounce weight. Chartreuse, black, orange and black, red and white are others that I like to use. It is always a good idea to try an assortment of colors, as you will find that a color that works well where you normally fish may not be as good when fishing other areas.

You can find more information on setting up for jig fishing HERE

It is easier to discuss the times and places where jigs do not work well than it is to list all the times they will work.  The steelhead jig relies mainly on color and action to trigger a strike.  Therefore, you can expect them to perform poorly in low visibility water.  When the visibility is less than two feet it is time to switch to some other type of lure or bait.  For similar reasons jigs do not work well in the fast pockets of water in the rivers.  In almost every other steelheading water, jigs will prove to be deadly.  

Jigs come into their own in slow moving or still water.  Which in my opinion is some of the hardest spots to fish for a steelhead with the conventional drifting techniques?  With the wiggle of marabou or rabbit fur combined with a small dab of bait or scent, jigs are deadly.  Jigs are the most effective steelhead lure you can use in slow or still water.  

Jigs also work well in moderate to fast currents as long as the water has good visibility.  In clear water, nothing beats tiny jigs.  When tipped with a single egg, a piece of earthworm, or a piece of shrimp they become deadly.  In conditions most of us find ourselves fishing, the two to ten foot deep-water jigs work extremely well.  Moreover, in a current that is moving at two to four knots the jig will prove to be irresistible to steelhead.  As your float bounces along in the wavy surface of the water, the jig mirrors that action right in the heart of the steelhead’s den.  Few steelhead can resist a brightly colored bit of marabou or rabbit fur that dips and swoops through their living room.  Tip your jig with a small piece of shrimp or worm and it is a snack that they find hard to refuse. 

I will not go steelhead fishing without the equipment I need to setup for jig fishing.  It has proven itself to me repeatedly.  Jig fishing is also a great way to start someone out steelhead fishing if they have never been steelhead fishing before.  You set them up with a jig show them where they need to drift and tell them that when the float goes under they need to set the hook.

Being able to See your target is a tremendous advantage when steelhead fishing.  A good Fishfinder is the one tool you need on your next steelhead fishing expedition.  With a Fishfinder, you will know exactly where you are most likely to make the perfect catch.  Knowing exactly where the steelhead is laying will give you more time catching and less time searching for steelhead.

You want a Fishfinder designed to give you fast and clear information when you need it.  The Fishfinder needs to have excellent shallow water performance.  You will want one that is very capable of locating steelhead in deep water as well.  A dual-beam transducer is a good option.  These normally have user-selectable views going from narrow to wide.  This will help you see more fish in shallow water this is also very important when searching for steelhead. 

There are a number of Fishfinder manufactures out there today.  Some of the better-known brands are Lowrance, Humminbird, and Garmin to mention a few.  There are many other as well these were some that I have used over the years and I am familiar with is all.

Once you find the right fishfinder for you become as familiar as possible with how it works and what it is telling you.  I have seen a number of steelhead anglers using fish locators that were not sure how they worked.  They could have done just a well locating steelhead staying home and reading a comic book.

For those of use that do not have a boat we can jump into when ever we go fishing Humminbird has come out with a fishfinder just for us.

Humminbird SmartCast RF-35 Wrist Mount Fishfinder designed to be worn on your wrist.  It is just like a watch for the ultimate in portability.  The Humminbird SmartCast RF-5 Wrist Mount Fishfinder features the Advanced Remote Sonar Sensor (RSS).  It has the wireless technology to provide precise information about bottom contour.  It will even give you depth and water surface temperature.  You wear it like a watch and get precise readouts easily.  They are viewable on the 1.25”, 48V x 32H LCD screen.  While the screen size does seem a little small once you get use to the size, it does provide you with some amazing information.

Using a Fishfinder will have you spending more time fishing productive water and less time search for that mystical steelhead.  You will have an informed advantage among the other steelhead anglers.  The pay off will be better steelhead fish stories than ever before.

When fishing for steelhead in large bodies of water pulling plugs is a deadly steelhead fishing technique. This technique works well throughout the season and is one that I prefer when the water temperatures fall and the steelhead become sluggish. You are able to keep this plug waving around in front of them longer and encouraging a strike. In order for this to work for you, it is important that you know where their holding spots are or at least what a holding spot would look like. You could spend the day drifting your plug through nothing but open water if you are not familiar with steelheads habits and knowing where they like to hold is necessary in order for pulling plugs to be successful.

Some of the popular plugs here in Oregon, Washington and Idaho include:
• Hotshots,
• Wiggle Warts,
• Tadpollys,
• Kwikfish,
• Flatfish,

Just about any bass plug that dives from six to fifteen feet and is available in good steelhead colors will work for steelhead. Hotshots and Wiggle Warts would be my first choice if you were just starting out or on a tight budget.

Some of my favorite colors are red, blue/silver, chartreuse/silver, red/white, and bright blue. The angler should have several colors to use throughout the day, as different colors seem to be preferred at times by that crazy steelhead.

Plugs are commonly used from a jetsled or driftboat. However, side plane drifters are also becoming popular throughout the area. You begin at the top or upstream portion of steelhead holding water and backing down slowly trying to keep the plug in the steelhead face. Usually they will get irritated when the rattling plug is near pushing them out of where they want to be and they will slam it violently.

Pulling plugs is a very exciting way to spend the day on the river and when the fish are active, it will keep you in suspense waiting for one of those violent strikes that are so common when fishing this way. If you ever have a chance, I recommend giving pulling a pug a try.

Steelhead fishing in Oregon, Washington and Idaho has some of the finest steelhead fishing found anywhere in the world.  The abundant rivers and rainfall that frequent the Pacific Northwest coast provides for ideal steelhead and salmon fishing opportunities.  Just about any time of year, a steelhead angler can find an opportunity to pursue steelhead.  Idaho thanks to the Snake, Clearwater, and Salmon Rivers offers the angler fishing opportunities from August through the end of April. 

Steelheads are the most sought after game fish here in the Northwest and possibly the world.  There are some excellent runs of native fish that angler can fish for along the coastline.  These native fish are on a catch and release basis only however. 

     Most rivers in Oregon and Washington have both Summer Steelhead and Winter Steelhead.  The summer run fish begin arriving in the spring and stay in the rivers until the next winter when they spawn and head back to the ocean.  These summer fish are very aggressive and will take lures, flies, bait and most anything, that is presented to them.  The summer steelhead when they come back into the rivers are aggressive feeders and they actually revert back to the behaviors of a big rainbow trout as they live in the rivers for many months before actually spawning. 

Fishing for these fish can be very exciting as they are very acrobatic and jump frequently and are very strong fighting fish.  The summer fish are a very colorful fish with similar markings to a trout.  One exception is the metallic looking head and the big red stripe down the side.  Steelheads are also much bigger than a trout.  Winter Steelhead begin coming into the rivers in the late fall usually with the first good rainfall.  The first to arrive are the hatchery fish, which traditionally begin to show around thanksgiving on some rivers with the bulk of the runs occurring from Christmas to mid January. 

The native fish usually come in later beginning in February and continuing until April or so.  These winter fish are chrome bright as they enter the rivers and will be a dark blue on the back with bright silver white sides. 

The winter steelheads are not as aggressive biters as the summer fish and can be quite challenging to catch.  These fish are coming in to spawn and they usually do this quickly after entering the fresh water.  Because they do begin to discolor quickly and begin there spawning activity almost immediately after entering there home rivers it is very important to be on the river in the right spot at the right time with the right river conditions to be able to catch a beautiful chrome bright winter steelhead.  It is a very good idea to go with someone that knows the river well or hire a guide if you wish to have good success on the winter fish.