In the Northwest, the rise and fall of river water levels more then any other factor determines the number of winter steelhead that are on the move. It will influence where they will be located, and determine which fishing method will produce the best results.

Float Fishing: Usually the best way to fish in low and slow moving river currents.

Being able to feel when a steelhead strikes is the secret to catching steelhead not only in the Northwest but also through out their range. However, a growing numbers of steelhead anglers are finding success by switching to their eyes. Float fishing will out-produce any other method when stream water levels are at their lowest and the water is crystal-clear. When fish hold in slow-moving water, it is extremely difficult to drift fish these area effectively. Float fishing is also a good way for fishing current edges or seams. These edges are a favorite place for steelhead to rest during their upstream migration.

Baitcasting reels combined with 9-to 10-foot medium-light or medium-power rods are the most popular. You may find that a spinning reel works better under certain conditions such as when casting light rigging. In addition, although monofilaments work, the super-lines, such as Fire-Line, float and make line mending easier. (Mending your line means that when the river current starts create bow in your line you pick up the line to remove this bow.)

You also need a selection of steelhead floats (long, thin types work best), split shot or egg sinkers, single hooks ranging in size m 2/0 to 2, and an assortment of jigs or baits. Although you can use cured salmon or steelhead egg clusters, many anglers employ a steelhead jig (this becomes necessary in crystal-clear water), or a scent-enhanced imitation egg cluster, steelhead worm or shrimp when the river has a little color.

When rigging, position the float so your bait rides two-thirds of the way to the river bottom. Since these fish typically lie in water five to eight feet deep, this will position your offering within easy reach, yet reduce hang-ups. Remember that fish cannot see below them.

Side Drifting or Back Drifting: from a boat is a good technique when fishing a river with medium to low flows.

Where boat access is available side, drifting is a popular way of presenting your bait. Anglers make parallel casts upstream of the drift boat or jet boat, while the operator backs the craft downstream at the same speed or a slightly slower speed of the river this way the line maintains an upstream angle.

Because you are moving with the current, it will typically take a small amount of weight to keep the bait near bottom. Many anglers employ a three to five shot slinky, one to three split shot or an inch of 1/8-inch pencil weight. Baits include small egg clusters, a drift-bobber like a Corky Drifter, and scented steelhead worms are becoming popular as well.

To facilitate easy casting and cushion the blows from hard-fighting fish, 9- to 10-foot light- to medium-power rod and reel outfit. You will want to use 10 to 12 pound monofilament line and 24 to 40 Inch fluorocarbon leaders the fluorocarbon lines are harder for the fish to see. When a steelhead hits, the bite is normally quite hard and requires little or no hook set. Using this technique the steelhead hook them self when they take the bait. You can just lift the rod up and start playing the steelhead.

Drift Fishing: This technique works best after rains when rivers are falling.
This drift fishing presentation works best in higher river flows; this is a good method to use when river levels are dropping after a rainstorm when the river starts to come back to a fishable condition. These conditions are when the winter steelhead is often the most abundant and mobile. The more fish you have on the move the better your chances of getting your line in front of ones nose.

Fishing from shore or a boat, you cast your rigged outfit, consisting of weight, 18 to 24 inch leader, drift bobber, imitation egg cluster or shrimp, across and slightly upstream. Since steelhead lie on or just off the bottom, use just enough weight so the rig taps the bottom every few yards. You do not want you bait to drag the bottom for two reasons one is that fish cannot see below them and the second is that if you are dragging the bottom you are going to be snagging all the time.

You will want to hold your rod tip about 25 to 30 degrees off the water and follow along you need to see and feel what is happening. Despite the fish’s strength and size, you can expect a bite to be nearly imperceptible. If your rigging stops or hesitates, or you notice that, your line makes a sudden yet gentle swirl set the hook hard.

Use a medium-to-medium-heavy, eight or eight ½-foot rod; combined with baitcasting reels and 10 to 15 pound line and do not forget the fluorocarbon leaders for this technique.

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!

I was finally able to make a trip down to the Salmon River Saturday November 29, 2008 and had a great time. While I have missed the main push of steelhead that migrates up the Salmon River, I did manage to catch a couple of nice Steelies.

Steelhead fishing at Riggins is always a hit and miss type of deal you never know when the wind is going to blow. Saturday was a perfect day for fishing though, overcast with high clouds and not a single breeze. The river was crystal clear, I would have like to seen some color to it but this late in the year, and with no rain, it was what I was expecting.

With the clear conditions of the river, my fishing partner Randy and I both knew that it was going to be tough to get the steelhead that are leery to hit. Therefore, we both decided to try jig fishing for them. As it turned out we made a good choice and we both had fair success with this method.

I tied on a 1/8 ounce jig with a black body and orange head and since we have fished this spot for years, I knew I needed to be about six and a half feet deep so I adjusted the bobber stop for that depth. Randy who had just come back from fishing the Clearwater a couple of days before was setup and ready to fish so he was the first to get his line wet. He was using the same type of jig but with a white head.

As I turned to walk down to the river, I hear Randy say there he is, his second cast tied him into a nice buck steelhead that was thirty inches long and may have weighed nine or ten pounds. Since it is getting so, late into the season, head did not perform any of those famous aerial acts for us but it did give him a good tussle. Well maybe this clear water is not so bad after all ten minutes into the day and we have a steelhead on the bank.

We continued to fish for the rest of the day and while fishing is not what I would call hot it was productive we were getting a hit about every hour or so and ended the day with hooking into six fish. Yes Randy did out fish me this trip he hooked four to my two, I will make it up the next time we get a chance to go though.

While as the weather continues to cool off and less and less steelhead angler brave the conditions I find that steelheading will remain fair until we get the spring rush as the steelhead again start moving into their spawning grounds. If you want to be able to have the river mainly to your self these next three month are some of the best times to head out. The Steelhead will remain in the river and as long as there is no bottom ice, you will be able to hook into them every now and then.
Until next time!

Steeelhead fishing has started to pick up here in Idaho. With the cooler temperatures and some recent rains the steelhead are on the move. The Steelhead are now being caught throughout the entire salmon river. With the larger B-run steelhead showing up also, things are becoming interesting again.

The Clearwater River is probably your best bet if you are looking for the B-run Steelhead although there are a few showing up on the main stream of the Salmon River. I have caught a couple of the larger b-run fish just below Riggins. I am not sure how far up the river they have made it yet. (So much River to fish and so little time.)

Fall is my favorite time to fish for these magnificent fish. The water temperatures are relatively warm and the steelheads metabolism has not slowed do to the colder water. When you are, fortunate enough to hook into one they give you an excellent battle and as any of you know who have hooked one yourself, this time of year the steelhead become aerobatic when hooked. You can expect them to jump five or six times and they normally clear the water by a foot or more. Not to mention the fact that during this time of year the steelhead are excellent to eat. Your biggest dilemma will be which steelhead you are going to keep and which ones to release.

Drifting a medium sized corky with a small piece of shrimp and yarn has proven to be the most successful for me. However many steelhead anglers here locally are using a float and jig setup and are have good success with them as well. Like always we all have are preferred ways of fishing steelhead and right now, the main thing is just get on the river.

Have you been tying flies and working or at least trying to work off the kitchen table or maybe even a card table in the back room. Let us get organized and make our fly tying more enjoyable and productive. There are several ways to do this but one of the fastest and easiest ways of accomplishing this task would be to pick your self up a fly tying bench. Think of having everything you need at you fingertips. Having a bench or a workstation where all your materials are organized and within easy reach will allow you to enjoy your fly tying even more. It is a fact that you will be able to produce more flies in less time once you are organized.Investing in a fly tying bench does not have to be expensive either. You can go with a simple yet affective platform like the Pedestal Base Fly Tying Station A great addition to any fly tiers collection. This extremely functional compact fly tying base is designed with everything you’ll need to organize frequently used tools and materials.

There are a number of holes in variety of sizes located around your work surface for tools, and routed trays designed to keep hooks and beads from falling to the floor. Perfect for use at home or on the road, the tray is compatible with any standard vise.

You may want to go with something a little more sophisticated like the Oasis Fly Factory Bench which is a beautiful hand-crafted tying bench made of solid oak with a clear lacquer finish. Unlike some cheaper benches, Oasis uses plenty of screws and glue no nails or staples to ensure years of dependable use.

It has ten-brass spool rods hold up to 20 spools of thread. There are thirty-one holes of various sizes, including a half-inch swing-lamp hole. These holes will allow you to place your tool out where you can see them yet keep them out of your way. The clear plastic trays are set against a white background that makes locating small beads and hooks a snap. This unit will also accommodate any standard vise.

Another bonus is the fact that it is made here in the USA.

You may want to go up one more step with the Cahill Fly-Tying Bench it will organize your fly tying space without you really trying. This is a beautiful rock maple bench offers an organized work area to keep all materials and tools nearby. It will increase your fly tying productivity by saving you from having to search for tools or material. The bench top slides open to reveal a convenient divided storage area.

For those of you looking for the supreme fly tying bench there is the Willow Run Fly Tying Desk The Willow Run Desk provides you with an organized space to tie the perfect fly from storage drawers to ample working space. This piece also makes a great writing desk. Made from birch and finished with cherry veneer and cast bronze drawer pulls, it folds down to become a rustic piece of furniture that will suit any room. This desk is constructed of solid Pine Wood and will last for generations.

 

 Find your Fly Tying Bench Now!

I thought I would write a quick post today about steelhead fishing at Riggins Idaho.A good friend of mine and fishing partner for over thirty five years called last night to let me know how the steelhead fishing report was on the Salmon River at Riggins.

With the weather as warm as it has been over the last two weeks I thought that the steelhead may be holding up in the river some where. Once again I was wrong according to his report. He fished just below Riggins at the mouth of Race Creek. Which is one of his favorite steelhead hole during the early fall run. After fishing for a little over six hours he hooked four steelhead and was able to land two of them.

They are were what is known as A-run fish the small of the steelhead and the first to arrive here in Idaho. These A-Run fish usually weigh in the 5 to 7 pound range with an average length of about 26 inches. According to what he told me however they were very aggressive fish, jumping and making several good runs on him before he either landed them or they threw the hook.

Four Steelhead in six hours. Sounds like it is time to make trip down to Riggins.

By the way I hear that they are doing very well on the Clearwater too. The upper section of the River remains catch and release only until the 15th of October remember that if you are planning a trip up there.

See you on the River!

This article describes the basics of freshwater Steelhead and salmon fishing for the beginning angler. River drift fishing is probably the most common method used for steelhead and salmon. As and drift fishing salmon are very similar you can apply them when steelhead drifting and salmon drift fishing. It is intended only as a beginning, and is not meant to cover every aspect of salmon drift fishing, or steelhead drift fishing. After you get your feet wet, you can and should constantly search for additional information to improve your abilities and skills.

Freshwater salmon fishing and steelhead fishing can be done from the shore or a boat, and the drift fishing method described can be used either way. Boat fishing affords anglers some opportunities not available to the shore anglers.

Steelhead Drift Fishing And Salmon Drift Fishing:

These techniques will work well when either drift fishing for steelhead or drift fishing for salmon. Drift fishing is a common method used to catch both steelhead and salmon. The angler casts their line upstream, you then let the line drift down through the run or pool. Once your line reaches the end of the drift you then reel in the line to start the drifting process over again. Drift fishing is normally done from the shore or an anchored boat.

Generally, the idea is to have enough weight for your setup to bounce along the bottom, touching every foot or two. Ideally, it will drift at approximately the same speed the current is moving. More weight will slow down the speed at which your bait drifts downstream, and less weight will speed up the drift.

The best strategy is to work the entire run from close to the shore and working your way out with each following cast. Once you have covered all the water, you can reach from where you are standing move down a couple of steps and repeat the process. If you get a hit or catch a steelhead or salmon try to make a mental note of where you caste and where the fish hit. Steelhead and salmon use what are called runs so if you catch one it is likely that you will be able to catch more at the same location.

Figure 1. Diagram showing standard strategy for drift fishing a run or drift on a river.

When fishing in crowded conditions, you may simply have to work your way into a line of anglers and fish right where you are, without moving. Cast upstream at a 30-45 degree angle and let your bait bounce along until you reach a 45-30 degree angle downstream. Reel in and do it again. Your goal is to bounce your offering along the bottom until a fish picks it up with its mouth.

Beginning anglers often have trouble telling when a fish picks up the hook or when their gear has caught on a rock. Over time, you will develop a feel for the difference and learn when to set the hook and when to gently coax the gear off of the rocks. You should always remember that when in doubt, set the hook.

Typical drift fishing gear:

• For a good steelhead drift rod or salmon drift rod you will need a 8 ½ or 9 foot rod rated for 10-30 pound line.
• As for a drift fishing reel either a bait casting reel or a spinning reel will work I prefer a bait casting reel on large rivers and a spinning reel on smaller rivers and streams.
• For larger fish, like chinook salmon, use 20-25 pound line. Depending on where you are fishing you may need even heavier line.
• For steelhead drift fishing, you will be using 10-15 pound line most of the time.

You will find there is an endless variety of weights, lures, floats, and/or baits that anglers can use while drift fishing for salmon, and an even larger variety when drift fishing for steelhead.

A standard setup for drift fishing:

One example of a steelhead drift fishing rig using standard salmon drift fishing gear:

Before you head out drifting for steelhead please visit our shop at Steelhead Anglerwhere you will find all the steelhead gear and salmon gear you need. We have a number of way in which you can pay for your fishing tackle paypal, check or credit cards are accepted by most of our vendors with paypal being preferred by many.

Rod Action:
Rod Action is the term used to describe how much of the rod bends when pressure is put on the tip. A fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the rod. A medium or moderate action will bend in the top half. A slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed ‘parabolic’, meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length.

These descriptions are subjected to the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.

Most bass rod actions are fast to very fast because this action generally provides better sensitivity and faster power for hook setting. By faster power I mean the rod ’shuts off’ faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don’t have to move the rod as far on the hook set to get into the stiffer part of the Rod.

Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to medium casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as corky and bait fishing.

Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hook setting power. These actions are often used for applications that involve treble hooks, like using a hot shot. The ’strike’ of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish’s mouth before it fully engulfs it. Yet you still will have the power for a good hook set.

Slow action rods will give you a better feel when drift fishing and may help you feel the strike a little easier. Since they are more responsive, you may be able to notice that subtle difference between bouncing over a rock and having a steelhead picking it up. When using a slow action rod you need to remember that setting the hook is going to require you to use more force when jerking.

The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.

Taper:
Often used as “action”, describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For the most part taper is the same as action.

Power:
Is used to describe the strength of the rod or its lifting power. When you hear someone say this rod has a lot of backbone, it means it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium heavy, medium, etc.

Power is closely related to the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines.

One important factor to keep in mind when selecting the power of your rod is the test of the line your line. Most all rods will have the line test limits printed on the rod. It is important to follow these recommendations since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod.

Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy Steelhead rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. A heavy steelhead rod rated for 20lb test line will not perform like a heavy off shore rod rated for 80lb test line.

The type of water you are fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Fishing in high, fast moving or murky water will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can make a long run and throw the hook. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get the steelhead to bite, meaning you should use a lighter power rod.

Responsiveness:
Related to modulus this is an idea that reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. If you are serious about steelhead fishing, you want a light yet responsive rod. As Gary Loomis puts it, “weight is the deterrent to performance”. Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to make an accurate, cast with a lower arc.

Guides:
Most of the guides you will find on rods today feature a metal frame and a ceramic ring that the line rest on as it glides through the glides. These rings can vary greatly in price, and one single guide on a spinning rod may cost in excess of $30 or as little as a couple of bucks.

Silicon carbide, or SiC, is usually considered the best material today. It offers a super smooth surface for less friction on the line during the cast and the retrieve. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat kills when it comes to fishing lines.

As for the brand name or the type of rod weather, it is casting or spinning it comes down more of a personal choice. Your main goal when selecting rod action is finding one the will match the type of fishing you plan on doing.

Much like the picture above, while you are Steelhead fishing it is very helpful to have both, patience and wisdom.You arrive at your fishing spot, you want to charge right down, and get started fishing. That may not be the best option for a number of reasons. Charging right in could make your whole day unpleasant.

Take some time to look over the area, has it changed any since your last visit. Is there someone already fishing from your favorite rock? Has the ground been covered with snow or ice, or has it rained making the trail down to your fishing area slick and muddy. May be the river level has changed so much that the hole you fished a couple of days ago is not even there now. Any of these items may ruin your day if they catch you off guard.

I always like to look around the area before I jump into something that I was not expecting. Perhaps like the dog above I had to be burned a few times before I learned to do this before I start fishing.

It has always been easier for me to read the river when I am standing above the river then it is to try to read it when I am at the rivers edge. The seams will stand out, normally I can tell where the deeper portions are, and I can see rocks that are submerged that I would not see otherwise.

If some one is fishing there, I like to watch and see how they are fishing, where they are fishing, and if they are having any luck. I have fished several holes over the years from the same rock not knowing that had I moved up or down steam some I could have caught twice as many steelhead. By watching other you can learn a lot about a river, steelhead, and where and how to fish them. Spending ten minutes watching someone else, fish could save you hour’s maybe even days of trial and error.

Having the patience’s to look around, watch, and learn from other will gain you some wisdom that may help you become successful at steelhead fishing. Of course having lots of luck never hurt either.

Luhr Jensen developed the Luhr Jensen Hot Shot Side Planer several years ago. Using it gets your lure out in the river where the big ones are hiding. I got on the internet and ordered a couple of the Luhr Jensen Hot Shot Side Planers so I would have them the next time I was on the river. When they showed up, I still was not convinced that this was going to work. It seemed to me that although the unit is quite simple, there were many things that could go wrong. However, I was going to be just sitting around anyways right.

The instructions that come with the unit are easy enough to follow. I should thank the people at Luhr Jensen for taking the time to put together a very thorough instruction package. They not only explain how to set up the unit they give you a few pointers as to how and where to use them effectively.

The first time setting it up took me quit awhile or at least it seemed that way. You first have to put the unit together as it comes in three pieces. You have the main float body, the side arm, and the rudder. There are actually two rudders one for heavy current and one for lighter currents. You need to slip the arm onto the body so that it is pointing away from you and decide which rudder you will need depending on the river current.

Once you have the unit together you need to setup your line. You thread your line through the eye in the trigger arm and then through the eye in the bottom of the unit. You then slip on a bead onto your line making sure the bead is bigger then the eye at the back of the side planer and then tie on a swivel. This keeps the side planer from slipping down your line and slapping the steelhead in the face once you hook one.

Since I have been using these for a couple of seasons now instead of a bead I have been using a spin-glow float it is just a little something extra to get the steelheads attention. The final touch is the Hot Shot use about a three-foot leader and it is a good idea to use a leader that is lighter weight then your main line. It will keep you from losing everything should you happen to snag up or the steelhead makes a sudden run and breaks you off.

Once you have everything setup strip thirty to forty feet of line through your side planer. How much line you strip out is going to determine how deep you will be fishing. There is a tab on the front of your side plane wrap your line around this tab four times and set the trip arm to the opposite side of the rudder. This is the tricky part you need to keep you line free from tangling yet not let the current take your hot shot down stream. Keep tension from your rod tip to the trigger arm and place it the river. The current will now start taking the hot shot side planer out into the river. If you keep enough tension on the side planer, it will move across the river and pull the hot shot behind it. Once you reach the trough you want to fish you can set you rod in a rod holder sit back, relax, and wait for a steelhead to come swimming by.

I like to use a medium to a medium heavy Steelhead rod with this setup it will give you the power you need for a good hook set. It will also help in keeping your line up out of the river between the side planer and the tip of your rod.

Plastic worms are very popular in British Columbia and they are beginning to catch on here in the U.S.This technique uses the same type of plastic worms that bass anglers have been using for quit some time now. Plastic worms in bubble gum, pink, oranges and reds are a very effective steelhead fishing bait. You can find some that are impregnated with sea salt those are my preference when I am choosing a plastic worm for steelhead bait.

These worms, usually fished with a bobber similar to jig fishing. You cast your offering upstream and let it float down naturally through the water. You fish the same type of water as with jig fishing. Concentrate on seams and pockets you believe to be holding fish. As with jig, fishing the ripples on the water causes the soft plastic worm to flutter and wiggle. This life like action is often just too much for a steelhead to resist.

Depth is critical when setting your bobber stop. Setting your bobber stop so that your weight is just off the bottom may take a couple of cast. When fishing a hole that you are not sure of the depth it is better to start set to high and then lower 12 to 18 inches with each cast. Once you float starts to bounce you know you are to deep reel in and raise your float about 12 inches and you are ready to fish. You will want your bait to be just above the fish’s nose.

Plastics can also be fished using the drift fishing method.
The trick here is adding just enough weight so you bounce off the bottom while drifting. I believe many anglers use about twice as much weight as they should. This will not only end up getting them snagged more often, it does not allow the bait to be presented in a natural way. They do end up catching a few steelhead however; they would do much better if they used less weight. If you feel your weight dragging the bottom, it is too much you want it to bounce. You should feel a tap, tap pause tap, tap pause when drift fishing.